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Please note: All Kanken Backpacks (excluding Knken No.2) are made from Vinylon F fabric. Waxing is not advised for this fabric.
G-1000 is a durable material and the tight weave (except G-1000 Air) makes it very wind resistant. But to increase the wind resistant properties, make the fabric more durable and add water resistance, you can by add Greenland Wax, made from a mixture of beeswax and paraffin, or alternatively you can remove it, making the garment lighter and airier.
Most of Fjallraven’s G-1000 garments come pre-waxed; but they will need a top after regular use and a few washes. And you can plan ahead and add an extra layer of Greenland Wax when you know you will be out if particularly windy and wet weather. Areas more exposed to the elements like the knees, rear and lower parts of trousers, or the front, hood and back hem of jackets can benefit from some extra wax.
Note: that it is only G-1000 that can be waxed & Greenland Wax offers water-resistance, not waterproofness.
Waxing is pretty easy to do. Just remember these three steps: apply; heat; repeat.
Take the block of Greenland Wax and rub it with long, smooth strokes against the fabric leaving behind a thin, even layer. You’ll want to apply some pressure when you do this, but not too much that your movement becomes jerky.
Using an iron (or a hairdryer) on low to moderate heat, melt the wax into the fabric. Again use long, even strokes. Greenland Wax melts at between 55°C and 60°C (131-140°F), so try to keep the iron temperature around this point – you don’t want the wax to get too runny.
Don’t forget to wipe off the iron after use before ironing other garments.
This step isn’t always necessary, but if you want to make the fabric even more water resistant, repeat the process several times rather than applying a single, thick layer of wax. This is a good idea for exposed sections of the garment such as the hood and shoulders or the knees and rear.
While outdoors you can also use the flame of a camp stove to melt Greenland Wax. If you choose to wax on the go, hold the garment roughly 20-30cm above a steady flame. Don’t start too close! Begin further away and slowly move the garment closer to the flame until you see the wax starting to melt. Being careful not to burn the fabric or yourself, move the fabric over the flame back and forth until the wax has melted.
What happens when waxing products with down or synthetic padding or Hydratic lining?
So you don’t affect the filling, lining or the sensitive synthetic lining used to stop down escaping through fabric, we recommend using a hairdryer to warm the wax. For down, you can also use a tumble dryer on a low heat.
Many of Fjallraven garments aren’t made entirely from G-1000, and are made from a combination of materials, such as the Keb Jacket and Trousers that are made with G-1000 and synthetic stretch fabric. It is only G-1000 that can be waxed. So take extra care when waxing these types of garments to avoid getting wax on non-G-1000 materials.
Being made from cotton and polyester, G-1000 can be machine-washed at 40°C (although washing at 30°C is kinder to the environment). However, because the Greenland Wax washes out after two or three cycles, we suggest only washing waxed garments when it really needs it.
If the item is made from a combination of fabrics, you should pay close attention to the washing care label inside the garment – especially those with down or synthetic padding.
You can reactivate the Greenland Wax already on the garment, after long periods in storage. Or if you’ve washed the jacket once, but it feels as though the wax has washed out. Iron (or use a hairdryer) the garment on a low heat. The heat will draw the wax out of the fabric and you should be able to feel the difference immediately.
Sometimes wind and water resistance isn’t a priority. Sometimes you will want your garments to allow for airflow, in warmer climates. In this case, it’s a good idea to remove Greenland Wax. Do do this was the garment 40°C two or three times.