September 13, 2024Sustainability

Fjällräven's Commitment to Nature: Saying no to PFA'S since 2009

At Fjällräven, their relationship with nature is central to everything they do. As Global Product Director Donna Bruns bluntly puts it: “Without nature, we can just pack up and go home.” One of our core values is to “act responsibly towards nature, humans, and animals,” and this belief shapes all of our decisions. So, you can imagine how Donna reacted back in 2008 when she received a troubling phone call from chemical expert Stefan Posner. The news was alarming.

PFAS (per- and polyfluorinated compounds), which were widely used in the textile industry, were wreaking havoc on the environment. Donna was appalled.

What Are PFAS and Why Are They Dangerous?

First emerging in the 1950s, PFAS, commonly used in Durable Water Repellent (DWR) coatings, revolutionized the textile industry. These compounds allowed fabrics to repel moisture, grease, and dirt, making them ideal for outdoor products like jackets, tents, and backpacks. But they weren’t just limited to outdoor gear—PFAS were used in everything from t-shirts to socks.

The problem? These “forever chemicals” do not break down easily. Over time, PFAS seep into water systems, the soil, and even the air, traveling to some of the most remote places on Earth. They’ve been detected in aquatic life, human fetuses, and even mothers' milk. Studies have shown that PFAS can damage the immune system, affect hormones and organ function, and even alter DNA.

The Turning Point: Fjällräven’s Bold Decision

After learning the full extent of the environmental impact, Fjällräven's leadership quickly realized that PFAS had no place in their products. Donna informed CEO Martin Axelhed, and the decision was unanimous: PFAS had to go. It wasn’t just a question of switching out one chemical for another; it was about fundamentally rethinking how we could design products that respect nature.

But this task was far from easy.

Removing PFAS: A Long and Complex Journey

Removing PFAS required Fjällräven to meticulously examine every single component of every product. It wasn’t just about eliminating them from jackets and backpacks—they were lurking in the most unexpected places, like zippers and other trims. This process took years, as Donna’s team worked closely with suppliers to ensure that every part of their supply chain was PFAS-free.

Some partners were confused and skeptical. Many asked, “Why is this such a big deal now?” At the time, no other outdoor brands were even talking about PFAS. But Fjällräven remained committed to the cause, knowing that they were working toward a more sustainable future.

By 2015, PFAS had been eliminated from textiles for tents and other products. By 2021, the company had achieved PFAS-free zippers. Today, only a few small trims remain, and Fjällräven continues to conduct random checks to maintain strict compliance with its no-PFAS policy.

Introducing Eco-Shell: The PFAS-Free Alternative

One of the biggest challenges Fjällräven faced was finding an effective alternative to PFAS for water-repellent garments. When Donna and her team first learned about the harmful effects of PFAS, they feared it might be impossible to make high-performance outdoor gear without them. But they didn’t settle for a quick fix. Instead, they embarked on an ambitious project to develop a sustainable alternative.

After several years of research and development, Fjällräven introduced Eco-Shell in 2012. Made from layers of polyester, including a recycled outer layer, Eco-Shell provides excellent water-repellency without the use of PFAS. It works by making it difficult for water to penetrate the garment while wicking moisture away from the body, keeping the wearer dry in wet conditions.

However, unlike traditional DWR coatings, the water-repellent finish on Eco-Shell requires more frequent reapplication. But that’s a small price to pay for a more sustainable product. Reapplying the DWR is easy—you simply spray more PFAS-free coating onto a clean garment and tumble dry it. At Fjällräven, this approach isn’t just about creating high-performance gear; it’s about encouraging consumers to take responsibility for the care and longevity of their products.

Leading the Way Toward a Sustainable Future

The global push to ban PFAS is gaining momentum, with places like California and Europe enacting legislation to eliminate these chemicals by 2025. But at Fjällräven, we’ve been committed to this cause since 2009. Our journey to remove PFAS was a long, complex, and sometimes frustrating process, but we did it for the sake of nature.

“For nature, we were willing to take the hit,” says Donna. This wasn’t about following a trend or responding to new regulations—it was about staying true to our core values and making decisions that reflect our responsibility to the environment.

As we continue to innovate and explore new ways to minimize our impact on the planet, one thing remains constant: our commitment to nature. PFAS-free or not, Fjällräven products will always prioritize sustainability, ensuring that future generations can enjoy the outdoors for years to come.